Arrived

I have arrived safely in Kaneohe on Sep 23rd. I made a fast trip down the windward side of Molokai and the Molokai channel to arrive right at 12 noon. I had a great welcoming with all my friends from Makani Kai Marina. I sailing right up to the dock with no problem and I had plenty of people to take my dock lines and stop the boat. Then I was cleared by Customs agents and the party could commence. The party continued all afternoon and into the night. It is really good to be home again. I can relax
now with no immediate concerns that I need to deal with. I do have a huge amount of work to do on the boat but that is okay.

One More Day

I am approaching the north side of Maui at noon today. I have been busy getting this boat sailing downwind. That includes getting the whisker pole setup for the Jib. I am sailing fairly well like this but it is very rolly because of a large north swell on my beam in addition to the east swell. Unfortunately downwind sailing is also slower so I am doing 5 knots only and currently the current is taking some of that away. That can't last. Anyway I plan to arrive Kaneohe Bay in the midafternoon sometime.
The weather is nice now for a good landfall. The squalls have taken a break for a few days. So needless to say I am very excited about the completion of this voyage and being home soon.

Hawaiian Waters

I am back in Hawaiian waters this morning. I can hear the US Coast Guard on the radio. It is nice to hear the American voices and to be back in familiar water. I am still SE of the Big Island and will be passing east of it tonight. The wind has dropped to 15 knots and the seas have calmed down a lot to only 5 feet. I am keeping my speed up to 6 knots to ensure a morning arrival in Kaneohe. I expect I will slow down some when I turn a bit more downwind off Maui. The winds should hold up for me
to at least 15 knots till I get in. I should get in sometime Sunday morning. It is nice to have some easier sailing now for my final days of this trip.

Getting Closer

After 2 days of 25 knot winds I am seeing improvement as the high weakens. I have been making good speed regardless so I will get home by Sunday morning. The forecast is for the winds to weaken to 15 knots starting Friday night so that should be good sailing. I will be turning more downwind at that point and will need the pole rigged. When I arrive I plan to sail into the marina and dock at the end of B dock where I hope to have someone ready to take my dock lines. With additional help I can get
the boat to the slip. I have sailed all the way in before but it is risky so I would rather avoid that. I sure am ready to be home again. Only 425 miles to go!!

Bashing Along

I am bashing along in 25 kt wind and 10 foot seas. This is not relaxing or fun. I am sailing nearly closehauled to maintain my track. The wind is solid NE and the current is setting me west so I am pointing higher than I planned. At least I got enough easting, just barely. I hope to arrive Kaneohe sometime Sunday. Thewinds are going to be strong like this again tomorrow but Friday a slight easing then less on the weekend. I am doing okay but I sure wish I could have had better luck with the weather.
I don't mind 20 kts but 25-30 is too much. I am really ready to be there. I must be patient.

Not Fun

Last night as I motored into the night there were thunderstorms to my east. Not good. Then the engine went"Bang" and I found the fresh water cooling pump destroyed with the shaft broken clean off. So with very little wind I start sailing. Then the line of thunderstorms comes right over me at 1 am until 3 am. That sound of thunder was very scary. Lightening was hitting the water around me. I was very scared. Luckily I did not get hit. Then in the morning the wind dies eventually to zero. I have to
sit there as I see another line of thunderstorms approaching. I was not happy. Then a NE wind started and I started sailing north away from the thunderstorms. The wind continued to increase to 30 knots. I raced to the north. Now I am sailing fast in 20 knots with 8 foot seas. The sky is cloudy with squalls all around but at least I am sailing. This was not a fun episode to my trip.

Motoring

I am still motorsailing in light winds. I have left the ITCZ but now have entered a weak low pressure system. The sky is overcast and light rain. The wind is from the west to I am just motoring into it trying to stay on course. I think this system will move through and I will get to the trade winds hopefully tomorrow sometime. I am disappointed that I am not already in the trade winds but that's weather for you. You never know what your going to get. I still have alot of fuel for motoring so hopefully
I can get myself to the trade winds at about 12N. From there I should have a good sail the rest of the way.

Doldrums

I am still plugging along in the doldrums. The weather is actually very nice except for very little wind interspersed with huge squalls that blow 30 knots. They are all around me and they definitely keep you busy trying to decide if it will hit or miss. I seem to have a ways to go yet to get back to the east trades. Possibly another 2 days. I am trying to keep my speed up for the obvious reasons. Also my friend I met in Bora Bora left for Hawaii 8 days after me. My goal is to arrive before him. He
has a very fast 50' boat so it could be close. I will be glad to get back to the trade winds for the final leg to Hawaii. They should be 20 knots when I get there which will be fast but a bit rough.

Busy Day

I had the best speed over 24 hrs since I left. I made 150 miles at an average of 6.25 knots. That's moving pretty fast for this 28' boat. Just as I am enjoying that progress I enter the ITCZ or "the doldrums" with a mean squall that blew in at 32 knots. The waves seem to immediately get huge and from all directions. After weathering that blast the wind went calm or nearly so. Now I am motoring to get to the other side of the ITCZ. It is not certain how long that will be as the width varies and it
also moves around. I hit it earlier than expected. Now if it moves north that wouldn't be so good. I have lots of fuel to get me through. I can expect more rain and squalls before I'm past it and constantly changing conditions. I should be back in the trades by 10N. I'm at 6 30N now. That would be 210 miles. I have not seen any traffic since I left. I do see various birds and millions of flying fish. They remind me of flocks of birds like doves that all takeoff at the same time. They are constantly
flying off in large schools from in front of the boat. I have had a few on deck as well. I'm looking forward to getting to the East trades turning the boat for Hawaii.

Fast Sailing

Today the wind really picked up with 20 knots from the ESE. That got me going over 6 knots. Of course that got the seas going as well so it got fairly rough. The fast boat speed was welcome however. Again the weather is clear and sunny. I am approaching the ITCZ so that will change. Also I have watched the E Pacific weather closely for tropical storms that could affect me. The good news is there is nothing to be concerned about now at all. If that can hold for several more days I should have no
problems with storms. Thee boat is doing great. The beam reach puts a strain on the Monitor steering system but it handles it fine. However I keep my fingers crossed that it will continue to do okay under the strain. The crossing swells throws the stern around very forcefully which the Monitor has to counter. The ride has been lively today, like Mr Toads Wild Ride.

Good Sailing Day

The wind made a dramatic change today by turning to the southeast. At the same time I made my easting goal so I had headed north. That put me on a nice beam reach in 12-15 knot wind. Can't get better than that. Boat speed was up to 6 knots. Now however this evening the winds have dropped to only 10 knots so have have slowed down again. Oh well, nothing I can do about that. My next waypoint is at 10N where I will turn northwest for Hawaii. I will clear the Big Island on the east side then going down
the island chain along the north. That way I avoid the wind shadow of the mountains and also the nasty channels. I have yet to encounter any squalls but that time is coming in a few days when I cross the ITCZ at 8-10N. I am hoping I will slip through easily like we did on the way down. I have been enjoying the sailing. It is peaceful and quiet yet a challenge to keep the boat sailing well.

Crossing the Equator

At 1142 this morning I crossed the equator at 148 24W. The weather continues to be very nice with 15 knot east wind and mild seas. The air temperature is still cool. I would guess about 78 degrees. The only thing to complain about, there's always something, is the current that continues to hold me back at a full 1 knot. That is a 20% reduction of speed. It is frustrating to get the boat sailing well and have that deducted. Oh well. I had my shot of Captain Morgan's and gave one to Neptune. I hope
he is happy with that. I have been slower than I expected so far due to the headwinds and current. I have averaged 4.2 knots since leaving Bora Bora. I had planned for 5 knots. The speed should pick up once I turn to the northwest at 10 degrees north. I will be on good reach then and should get help from the current. My best guess for arrival would be the 24th. I will soon be half way.
Good news...this evening the wind finally switched to the southeast just as I made my easting of 148W. Now I have headed off onto a close reach and the boat speed improved dramatically. Hopefully this will last. I had to sail 10 days closehauled or nearly so. That was unfortunate but at least the weather has been very nice.

Fresh Fish

I put a fishing line out today. Two hours later I had a small Shibi[yellow fin tuna] on board. Just the perfect boat size. Tomorrow morning I will cross the equator at 148W. I will have the easting I wanted. The sailing is good today with ENE wind at 15 kts. I am behind my original plan because of the north wind I had to put up with. But I'm not doing too bad. I am sleeping well even in the rough seas. I get up to check everything every 2 hours then go back to bed. I am in a strong current now,
against me of course, which seems to have cooler water. The air temperature definitely cooled off and became more dry. The sky is completely clear. Although the cabin is mostly closed up it is comfortable. So this will be my last day sailing in the South Pacific.

Nice Day

The winds have settled down today and are from the east so I am making easting quite well. I want to get to 148W before heading north again. I am constantly trying to keep everything working. Although most of the problems are minor or temporary they are bothersome. The Sat Phone is not connecting very well right now. I suppose its my location but who knows. It is supposed to work anywhere. My daily routine is fairly relaxed however late afternoon a lot happens at once so I get busy. Of course that
is just when the wind picks up and I have to reef. It is also when I send email and connect to the Seafarers Net. After that I can have a beer and watch the sunset. I have completed my first week of this trip. I should have about 2 weeks to go.

Rough Sailing

The wind has been really blowing for 24 hours. It has been up to 25 kts but mostly 20-22. I think it is settling down to 20 now. It has shifted to the east and will keep shifting to the ESE. That would be a help. I really don't like this rough sailing. The waves are 8 feet and really throw the boat around. I am still making almost 120 miles a day. I should cross the equator Monday night. I have not been fishing because it is too rough to cook. I just heat a can of something and that's all. Doing
anything in the galley is extremely challenging. I have been doing a lot of reading. I am sleeping okay. I am hoping the wind will settle down to 15 and make life aboard a little better.

Wind

The wind is getting stronger today which is not welcome news. I am in 20 kts now which sailing closehauled is not fun. I am able to just hold on to my northbound course. With the wind of course comes much larger waves which slows the boat down and makes it very uncomfortable. I have been making okay progress of about 120 miles or 2 degrees every 24 hours. The wind is STILL northeast!! The humidity has really gone up now as I approach the equator. I am getting the prickly heat again on my back but
am using measures to hopefully reduce it. I can see why people say that an ocean voyage like this is a once in a lifetime experience. Who would do it again?

Status Report

I still have NE wind but now it is a steady 15 kts which is good for my boat speed. I am averaging about 5.2 knots. I am able to sail nearly true north so I am not losing too much to the west. I'm close to the 150W longitude line. So I am making good progress to the north. Tomorrow I should see east wind which will help me work back to the east. The weather is really nice without a cloud anywhere. I have yet to be hit by a squall for this whole trip. The seas are moderate for this wind with no significant
swell. I cleared Caroline Atoll last evening by just 10 miles to the east. That was a little too close.
I tried fishing yesterday but had a problem with the frigate birds. They would swoop down on my lure and pick up the leader, fly up with it, then drop it. When I reeled it in fast they followed it nearly into the cockpit with me. They look very big from 5 feet away. So I postponed fishing for awhile. I was afraid they would fly into my wind generator. They just seemed bored and wanted to play.
The radar is a disappointment. It now shows the same fault that I had previously. I would have to climb the mast, open the dome, remove 11 small screws and reset the plug. Not going to happen! So I can forget about radar. The good news is there is NOBODY out here. Many people with radar don't use them out here anyway as they draw too much power. I do have the best radar reflector made and my lights are nice and bright. I will be more diligent about looking for traffic at night.
I managed to make coffee without spilling everything all over. So that's progress for sure. I am doing a lot of reading to keep from getting bored. Overall this is fairly enjoyable once I got over the fact I did not get the wind I had ordered. So I am doing good.

Headwinds

The wind has shifted to the NNE at 15 knots. That is not good for my progress. I have been trying to sail northeast or north but now the best I can do is northwest. The forecast does not show the winds to be this north. However, if this continues I will loose a lot of my easting which will make the sail that much harder later. I even sailed east for 5 hours last night but but decided that was not the way to go and the seas were much rougher in that direction. I had hoped to pass east of Caroline
Island but that doesn't look good now. I'm just going to have to stay on this NW course and hope for a wind shift back to the east. I will have to work out my easting later. This does not bode well for a fast passage. Otherwise, the weather is nice with no squalls in sight. I will just have to hold on here and hope for a better wind angle. My radio "call in" is working great. That was a problem sailing down so it is nice that it is fixed. You can go to Pacific Seafarers Net web page to see the "ROLL
CALL". You can also find the position reporter on that website. The old links that everyone was using no longer works. This afternoon the winds have settled down to 10 knots and is slowly going back more to the northeast. So the sailing today has been very relaxing and enjoyable under sunny skies.

Good Sailing Day

It was a very day for sailing with 12 knot winds and sunny skies. Now however the wind has shifted to the NE and picked up to 15 knots or so. I am forced to sail very closehauled which makes the motion uncomfortable. The wind should shift back to the East tomorrow. I sure hope so. I am sending position reports but people looking for them need to go to the Pacific Seafarers Net Homepage and find the appropriate link. The radio has been working great. That is a relief. So I am hanging in there doing
one day at a time.

Day 2

I have had a great start for my sail back to Hawaii. The light winds at first gradually increased to 15 kts. I am making easting therefore closehauled so it is getting a little rough but not real bad. I hooked a large marlin this morning. Luckily I got him off okay. Later I caught a small Aku which was great for dinner. Getting connected is iffy right now so I will do my best to keep the blog updated.

Departing Bora Bora

The time has arrived for me to sail home. The weather is looking good for a nice start. I will be singlehanded on this leg. I hope to do at least as well as the sail down arriving after 22 days. I'll should have some helpful current this time but the winds could be different so it is hard to predict exactly how long it will take. I am hoping for something around 20 days. I think the boat is more ready than ever. I have resolved all of the issues so I expect little in the way of problems. I am also hopeful that the ham radio will allow me to send email and update this blog as I did on the way down. It should work fine. I am looking forward to the sail although I am aware it is a long sail. I am ready to be home even now so I'm sure I will be very excited to arrive as I get close. Each day I will be a little closer so taht will feel good. I've enjoyed French Polynesia. There are some things I will miss but some things won't. I will be happy to be home.

East Lagoon

I am back to the BBYC after a couple days in the east lagoon area. It was very interesting on that side. You have to sail in very shallow water which was pretty cool. I cruised for miles in water only 10 feet deep. The anchorages were only 8' deep. That is quite a change from the 90' I've had to do. The water was very clear and at night the moon made it look like a giant swimming pool. I explored by kayak along the beaches and little inlets. The weather stayed perfect for me. Now I am getting ready for my long sail back to Hawaii. As I complete my final preparations I will look for a good weather forecast to depart on. As the highs pass by to the south it reinforces the trade winds, a bit stronger than I want. So I wait for that high to pass for the winds to back off to a more comfortable 10-15 knots and 6' seas. The boat is in good shape for the passage. I will need fuel, water and fresh provisions. Then I will be ready.

Bora Bora

I am still anchored at the BBYC. It has been a windy week so I have just stayed put. I have been working on the boat getting it ready for the long sail home. Also I have been ashore on my bike. That has worked well for me to explore or take a shopping trip to town. This is a beautiful island with the central mountains and reef motus. It is actually rather quiet though, much more like Kaneohe than Waikiki for sure. The town of Vaitape is small and only provides basic services. Otherwise houses surround the whole island along the shoreline and the interior is undeveloped. There are many luxury resorts however. There are a huge number of dogs, both as pets or just wild. They are everywhere you look. There must be more dogs than people. They tend to bark all night. Also there as many chickens. So they do their thing most anytime but especially at night. Another feature I noticed is the people are always cleaning up there yards are burning the waste. So most days has the smell of smoke in the air from somewhere. Anyway this is a beautiful place and will be heading out tomorrow to the east side of the island within the lagoon to explore some of the motus. There's great beaches and coral reefs there. It should be nice.

Bora Bora

I am anchored at the Bora Bora Yacht Club after a pleasant sail yesterday in 18 knot east wind. I had a quick tour of this island earlier on this trip but now I will see it more throughly and slowly. The weather is near perfect right now. I hope that continues. There is lots of places to see around this small island. I should have many things to report after awhile. It is interesting to see all the other boats as they pass through this crossroads of the Pacific. Many people I saw or met have moved on to the west. I am looking forward to getting on to the passage home. However heading into the North Pacific scares me somewhat with the potential for tropical storms this time of year, as Flossie is doing now. I spend time running "what if" scenarios as if I was involved with it. Essential what strategy to use to stay out of its way. The season for storms doesn't end till November however I am hopeful the frequency will diminish after mid September. Most of the storms that do form off Mexico stay in the East Pacific but some do cross into the Central Pacific which would affect me. Using the weaather reports and then avoidance is the key. Anyway Bora Bora will be my home for awhile.
Ron

Tahaa

I spent several days along Tahaa's west coast. I anchored on a pretty motu that also has a luxury resort. It is actually composed of several small islands which I kayaked around. That was really nice. Where I was anchored there was alot of coral heads which made snorkling interesting but the anchoring a challenge. I did find a good spot free from coral heads that worked out well for me. From the anchorage the view of Bora Bora was great, especially at sunset. I came back to Raiatea to get my propane tank filled. After much frustration it was determined they cannot fill my tank because they don't have the type of hose connector required. I have another full tank that will have to last me till I get home. I will be heading for Bora Bora in a few days. After a couple weeks there I plan to head for home. The weather has been very good and is forcasted to stay nice for awhile. I'll get enjoy Bora Bora for the second time since I've been here.

South Raiatea

I am back at Taravana after a 4 days in south part of the island. I stopped at four anchorages, including a fiord type bay with a tropical stream I paddled up. Then I anchored at a perfect tropical motu with long sand beaches and coral gardens for snorkling. It was a very scenic trip inside the lagoon. I was doing some repair projects along the way. I was able to repair my radar which had malfunctioned on the voyage earlier. I opened up the antenna on the mast and reconnected the electrical plug. I really didn't think that would help but amazingly it did. It is now working fine. That will be a relief on the sail home. I was finally able to get into town at Uturoa when I managed to find room at the dock. So I was able to pick up fresh vegetables,fruit and most important, BEER! So now I am planning a trip along the west side of Tahaa. After that I head back to Bora Bora for the remainder of my trip.

Wind and Squalls

I am updating this with little new to add unfortunatly. The strong winds have continued and I am still moored at the Taravana Yacht Club. It is comfortable and the food is great. I have met some really nice people. The wind is supposed to finally drop in a couple more days so I can move on then. The Tahitians call this wind Mara'Amu. It happens when a strong high pressure passes by to the south. It has remained stationary for days now. The seas outside are very rough. Luckily inside the the lagoon it is fine. So I am relaxing and getting boat projects done, while waiting out this weather.

Polynesian Show

I went to my first Polynesian show at the Taravana Club on Tahaa. It was really good with a small intimate setting. There was an audience of about 40 people all from the sail boats. The food was great and the singing and dancing was excellent. They kept it up for 3 hours with alot of audience participation. I was invited to join another couple at their table who I had met before so that worked out well.
I am hanging out here for awhile because it is comfortable and I can get a few projects done. The wind is quite strong so exploring new areas with the deep anchoring is not inviting right now. I would like to go to Uturoa to shop but the wind would have me pinned to the dock. This cruising is not simple. The weather plays such an important part of your daily life. The weather now is great except for the wind. Next week should be better as the high moves away to the east.

Taravana Yacht Club

It has been said that cruising is defined as working on your boat in exotic locations. No doubt that is partially true. Today while moored off the scenic Taravana Yacht Club I was engaged in repairing the toilet. It was a real mess inside. I scraped out salt deposits and other crude. Then I replaced some worn parts. Now the toilet is working well. The yacht club provides a nice restaurant/bar and other cruiser friendly ammenities. One being the mooring I am using, as the water is 100' deep. Bill Hannah was quite impressed with my manual windlass where you crank in 300' of chain 3 inches at a time. Anyway the mooring is appreciated. It seems very comfortable here so I will stay for a few days.

Back to Raiatea

We are back to Raiatea for Bill and Mary's flight back to Hawaii. We had a great time in Bora Bora. After a fantastic dinner at the Bora Bora Yacht Club we went looking for snorkling spots. We found a good anchorage right next to a pretty reef with lots fish and coral. Bill found a really nice shell but it was still alive to we put him back on the reef. The water is amazingly clear. At night we could hear the Tahitian drums from the Hotel Bora Bora's Polynesian show. We moved on the next day to other diving spots and settled in for the night at a very peaceful anchorage. There are many anchoring locations in shallow water with a sandy bottom. We motorsailed back to Raiatea with light winds and calm seas. I have some boat projects and chores to do. I plan to cruise over to Tahaa for awhile to relax and do my chores.

Bora Bora

After seeing Judi off at Raiatea, Bill and Mary arrived the next day. After a pleasant evening the rain began. The next morning we sailed for Bora Bora with the weather not looking too good. We ended up with a downwind sail in 10-20 kt winds with a 2 meter south swell rolling us around quite a bit. Mary succumbed to "mal de mer" but then recovered for our arrival after 5 hours. We proceeded through the lagoon to the Bloody Marys restaurant anchorage. In rainy weather we went ashore for dinner but then found out reservations were required. So we went down the street a ways to another very nice restaurant where they could get us in since it was early. We had a great seafood dinner then headed back to the boat. Soon after it really started pouring rain and continued all night. In the morning we moved the the Bora Bora Yacht Club anchorage. We have the required dinner reservations for tonight. The anchoring here is challenging in the 90 foot deep water. Swinging room from your neighbors needs to be considered. Also bringing 300 feet of chain and anchor up with my manual windlass is a workout. Bill had his turn at that this morning. After this trip I can really see the advantage of a larger boat, powered windlass, and a larger more powerful dinghy. The rain has cleared, so after shopping today, we will head out to the reefs for some snorkling tomorrow.

Raiatea

We are back in a wifi zone at Raiatea. We really enjoyed Huahine. We motored down through the channel to Avea Bay. It was really amazing how beautiful everything is, from the color of the water to the green textures of the jungle forest. The island has many fiord type bays which can be explored. Avea Bay was very peaceful. We went snorkling in very clear water and saw many tropical fish and two large sting rays which looked rather dangerous with their long tails raised up. The next morning we navigated back to Fare and the pass to head for Raiatea. We had a pleasant sail in light winds and as they say "mer belle peu agitee" We arrived through the pass at 1300 and anchored behind a small motu. After lunch we headed out for more snorkling. It was again very nice with deep coral reefs and thousands of fish. The water had at least 150' visibility. Now we are moored at the Marina Apooiti where all the charter boats are based. Judi has to catch her flight back to Hawaii. Tomorrow Bill and Mary arrive here for the next leg. The weather has been perfect. I hope it holds as we plan to sail to Bora Bora from here. It is only about 15 miles.

Huahine

We left Papeete at noon to sail 100 miles to Huahine. It started off with little wind so we were motoring. At about sunset the winds picked up to 18-20 kts from directly behind. So the jib was rolled out and the engine could thankfully be turned off. There was a south swell running about 6 feet so it would roll the boat around quite a bit. Judi summed it up saying "This Sucks!!". Well it was rolly but otherwise a nice night with no rain. I kept an occasional lookout for interisland traffic and had 3 cargo vessels pass by during the night. That is always cause for concern. I did manage a little sleep. I would set the alarm for one hour periods then go up and check for traffic. We arrived in Fare, Huahine at 0800 with a sunny morning and big canoe races just getting started. We launched the dinghy and checked out the town. It seemed very "South Pacific" and is very small, a nice change from Papeete. Judi bought a colorful pareo and we had lunch at a classic beach restrauant. Today we head south within the lagoon to Avea Bay, a remote beach and reef for snorkling and a secluded anchorage. Friday we sail for Raiatea for Judi's flight out on Saturday. Then Bill and Mary arrive from Honolulu on Sunday.

Getting chores done

We got back to Papeete just in time before a big wet weather system moved through. We really enjoyed Moorea. We hated to leave. Today the skies cleared but that pesky south wind is blowing making the dinghy passages to shore rough and wet. We completed my departure clearance for the Leeward Islands and got my sail back. Judi did a pile of laundry. It is too windy to put the sail back on right now. Hopefully by morning we will get it back on. We intend to leave for Huahine tomorrow sometime with SE winds. It should be about a 20 hour sail. We are looking forward to exploring a new island.

Spectacular beauty

We are still enjoying Opunohu Bay. The weather has been perfect. We went snorkling in very clear water. I saw some fish that were quite different from what I see in Hawaii. Also did some paddling with the kayak just sightseeeing. We are going to relax here another day then head back to Papeete. We were boarded by customs agents. It is common here at Opunohu. They were considerate and friendly. All of our paperwork was in order. A cold front is passing by close tomorrow so we should get some rain going back but the winds are forcast to be light from the west or south. We will motorsail for the 4 hour trip. In Papeete we will pick up my sail, departure clearance papers and do some laundry. We can also get water and fuel. We will also pickup some provisions from the big store there. I don't want to run out of Hinano, that's for sure. We will be busy in Papeete, then leave as soon as we can.

Uponuho Bay

We are still enjoying our stay here in the most spectacular anchorage of Polynesia. It has it all for scenery and location. We went ashore to explore the area and ended up at the Sheraton Moorea Lagoon for lunch. Had a great but expensive lunch at the pool bar. Had a nice walk back and just got to the boat when the rain started pouring. It rain hard the rest of the afternoon. Most boaters took the opportunity to shower in the rain. I sat in the dinghy for my shower/bath. It rained all night as well but this morning it is clearing with a pretty sunrise. With the sun returning now I plan to do some paddling and diving today. The light wind will turn to the north for our trip back to Papeete tomorrow.
Ron

Moorea

We are now anchored at Opunohu Bay on Moorea. It is the classic perfect spot to anchor with a nice beach, coral reef and fantastic mountain views. We anchored in 10' of water which was a nice change. This is a place to relax. I plan to use my kayak and do some diving. The water is crystal clear. There is a large Sheraton resort which we can dinghy to for a nice dinner. We plan to sail back to Papeete on Sunday to pick up my sail that is being repaired. For now we can just relax.
Ron

Peaceful Again

The weather has returned to normal. The Mara amu is over. We are planning to sail to Moorea tomorrow. I had to send my jib sail in for repair to the suncover. It will take a week so we will return to Papeete Sunday to pick it up. Then we will sail for Bora Bora. We are having a nice time with the much improved weather.
Ron

Still too much wind and surf

We are holding on here waiting for a break in the wind. It is frustrating too be getting this long stretch of wind and swell. It has to improve eventually. Ling and Shane flew home. They were great having on the boat and I will miss them. Judi is here now and looking forward sailing to Moorea but we need better weather first. I am enjoying Papeete. Everyone is so nice and friendly. The food is always exceptional. I enjoyed some poisson cru, a local favorite. Hope to take Judi to town tomorrow to see the Central Market Place. Big festivals going on now too. This south wind should turn to trades tomorrow.

Weather

I would like to have one night of uninterrupted sleep but the weather is making that difficult. We are having a cold front come through which made the winds switch and pick up to 30 kts. At 2 am we dragged down nearly into another boat. We were only a few feet from it when the anchor reset. So we had to pull up anchor and reanchor further away. We were lucky the boats didn't collide. We are now holding well with 270 ft of chain and no one too near us. The water is rough so we are just staying on the boat today. This cold front is moving east and things should return to normal in a day or two. We are also getting a 4 meter swell on the reef so we have to contend with that as well. I am sure hoping for more settled weather soon.
Ron

Rain

Having a litle trouble updating this. My connection is iffy. We are getting a couple of rainy days. Been to town and enjoying the food and shopping. This is an interesting place. I'll keep this short and hope it goes out.
Ron

Rain

Having a litle trouble updating this. My connection is iffy. We are getting a couple of rainy days. Been to town and enjoying the food and shopping. This is an interesting place. I'll keep this short and hope it goes out.
Ron

We've Arrived

We entered the Port of Papeete at noon today. We proceeded down channel to Marina Taina Anchorage. We are obviously elated and relieved to be here. The anchorage is very pretty and the boat is not moving finally after 22 days. It was a windy morning but once in the lee of Tahiti the wind became calm. So we are here and a bit overwhelmed with what do to first. We already meet some friendly boat neighbors who gave us some good tips. Now I mostly need a shower and a complete night of sleep.
Ron

Speeding along

We are one day out and have the boat going full speed at 6.5 kts. The seas are tolerable enough to do that although it is a wild ride. Like a horse going to the barn we can feel our closeness to Tahiti. Weather is perfect but with 20 kt wind. We should get in by noon so we will have time to find an anchorage and get organized before dark. Sun goes down at 1730. I normally drink coffee but I haven't had one cup this whole trip. It doesn't seem worth the bother and its hot anyway.
I do bother to shave though. We are really excited about arriving in Papeete. After 21 days at sea we have seen 2 boats and no land. Only lots of birds and fish. We will enjoy having the boat just sit still instead jumping and lurching all over.
Ron

More of the same

The day of squalls turned into the night of squalls. These were strong was with heavy rain and 30 kt winds. Reefing the jib during a squall is less than fun. Especially at night. Today we have sunny sky with no squalls but the winds are 20-25 with rough seas. Boat speed is good though and with 240 miles to go we should arrive in 2 days, noon on Saturday. These winds will stay with us all the way. We have had more than our share of strong winds this trip. The average we expected is much less, around
15 kts. We keep the boat moving and just hang on. This boat is fantastic for this trip, but I have learned a few things. I wish I had a "turtle" for the sliding hatch. It must remain closed or water can gush in from forward. I got wet in my bunk a couple times from this. The trade off was the hard dinghy mounted on the cabin top instead of a turtle. That also precludes the use of my dorade vents. They are essential as it is very hot below with everything closed. Sick bay reports the captain has prickly
heat on his back. He is to not sweat and take plenty of cool baths. Okay, right, will do. So we are sailing well with good weather and anticipating our soon to be arrival.
Ron

Smoother sailiing

Today was much calmer seas with nice sailing conditions except for numerous squalls but they weren't too much trouble. Nice to get the boat washed off. We are getting closer, only a few more days. We are ready to be there. It will be nice to open up the boat and dry everything out. The bedding is really damp. Feather pillows are probably not the thing to bring to the tropics. They are like a wet ball of feathers. Yuck! Laundry will be on the list when we get in. We are doing well and thankful for
the smaller seas today.
Ron

Hanging On

We are still getting pounded with strong wind and seas, up to 30 for awhile today. It should get better soon. Had a good radio signal on the net. I think the inverter was causing RF interference. Seems that is working better. I am wishing I had my dorade vents installed. They need to be removed for the dinghy on the cabin top. They would provide much needed ventilation. We are 10S and leaving the tropics so it should be less humid as we go south. We have been unlucky to have so much wind on this
trip. Average winds are 14 kts, we have twice that, day after day. It will get better. Anyway, only 4 days to go.
Ron

Same stuff..different day

We are still plugging along in 8' seas and 20-25 kt wind. We still are keeping the boat slowed down due to the waves. No squalls today, just lots of sun. We have to keep the boat closed up except the companionway so it is a little hot below. Forecast calls for more of the same caused by the stationary high just south of Tahiti. We are doing our 120 mile days so are on schedule for arrival on the 23rd. We are both looking forward to getting the anchor down. I was taking the fishing lure off yesterday
when a wave hit the boat throwing me off balance. I caught myself with my foot in the cockpit but jammed my little toe. My foot has been pretty sore. It will be okay but it is a reminder how careful we must be not to get hurt. We have only seen one boat since we left Hawaiian waters. We keep the radar on just in case. So another day of sleep, eat, and read.

Fathers Day

Happy Fathers Day, I got an email from Keith. Very nice!! Called Dad on the Sat Phone. We are plugging along in the 20-25 kt wind and 10 ft seas. If it would just be 20 kt I wouldn't mind. We are making our 120 miles a day and still should arrive Papeete on Saturday. There was no Ham net tonight. The net controllers no showed. That happens sometimes. We are getting some squally weather but have missed the worst of them. So we are doing okay and getting anxious to be in port.
Ron

Rough Night

The wind picked up to 20-25k last night with large waves right on the beam. So we would occasionally get slammed pretty good. We furled the jib, sailing with just staysail and double reef main. The boat is sailing well that way at about 5 knots. We are both pretty tired after a difficult sleeping night. The wind always picks up at night. Hopefully it will calm down today. Forecast was for 20k. In these conditions all you can do is try to sleep or read. The sky is clear so it should be a sunny day.
Last night we managed to make kielbasa with potatoes in the pressure cooker. We have been making 120m/day lately. With this beam reach I had hoped to increase that some but these waves make that too difficult. Anyway 120 is enough. Shane is going to meet us in Papeete on the 23rd. We would like to be in by then. So we are doing alright working through the rough parts. The boat is doing great.
Ron

We crossed the line

At about 1400 yesterday we crossed the equator. We tossed the leis from Makani Kai into the water, had a toast with Captain Morgans, offered one to Neptune. Festivites were then concluded. We are making good progress south. We decided we had enough easting. We are heading for a waypoint 300 miles NE of Tahiti to give us a SW run to the island. We are sailing at close to 6 kts now. We could go faster but why push so hard. At night we slow the boat down to give an easier ride and less stress on the
crew knowing sail configuration changes during the night will be unlikely. A few nights ago I had to put a reef in the main at 0200. Didn't really like doing that. We are eating well. We have something involving rice every night. Curry,stir fry, fried rice have all been popular. Ling cooks and I clean up. I think she has the better deal. Not that I'm complaining. She is a good cook. We really could use some fresh fish about now. We have been at sea for 2 weeks now. The crew is holding up well. We
have a bit over a week to go. ETA is on the 23rd. I hope this nice weather continues.
Ron

Equator Day

We are about 30 miles from the equator. Oh Oh!! Hana Pau!! I'm back. AS I was writing this the reel went off. Another marlin, darn it. This one was smaller, maybe 150 or so. I was able to stop him but it would be a long battle and we did not want this fish anyway. I tightened the drag down and in this case the hook pulled out so no lost gear. So what was I saying..oh ya, we are nearly to the equator sailing well in 12 kt wind making easting again. Another gorgeous sunrise with perfect weather. We
were able to stop motoring at sunset last night. Should have a nice sailing breeze for awhile. I am happy to make some more easting for the eventual SE wind. A bit further east will assure us of a good reach to Tahiti. Fishing lines are back out hoping for something in the 10 pound class for dinner.
Ron

Doldrums

The wind gradually went calm during the night. Now we are motoring south. We should get some wind tomorrow and 15 kts by Friday. We have plenty of fuel onboard which I brought for a calm like this. We use 8 gallons/day. We have about 35 gallons left. I don't have anything to repair today so maybe I will get a chance to read or do a little laundry. There is a lot of life out here. There are always a few birds around. We see malolo everywhere. We saw a large group of dolphins. I saw a huge splash which
I think was a marlin, aside from the one on my fishing line. I will never forget the sight of that marlin thrashing and jumping at the end of my line. Amazing power and strength. So the doldrums aren't so bad as long as the fuel holds out.
Ron

Perfect Weather

Our weather has become just perfect with 12 kt easterly wind and sunny skies. This the most relaxed sailing I've ever done. Just amazing! We are heading south but able to make some easting at night it seems. Winds always pick up at night and back to the East. We had an uneventful night which was welcomed. The Ham radio is having great difficulty for voice communication. It handles data okay. It was suggested I had corrosion problem on the 12V connection. We stopped the boat so I could get into the
battery compartment and check the radio connections. The cables on each post were not in top shape. I cleaned them all and tightened them down well. Hopefully it work better for the net tonight. If not I will check the back of the radio itself. I also fixed the refrigeration. It had been cycling on and off and basically not working. I found the 12v supply at the switch was corroded. After cleaning that the refer is working again. I guess boat repairs is a common theme out here for everyone. I should
have taken a good shake down cruise before I left but time, weather and health can make that difficult to schedule. Anyway we are looking at some really nice sailing and making good progress. We will be crossing the equator in 2 days. We are now over half way with an expected arrival in Papeete around the 23rd.
Ron
A quick update...BIG marlin strike a little while ago, at least 300 pounds. He was stripping my reel to nothing, jumping, thrashing, tail walking everything. When the line was nearly gone I tightened the drag to break the line. Luckily I got my line back. Very exciting to watch. I did not need to catch this fish!!

Highs and Lows

I have a feeling this life style is subject to a lot extreme highs and lows. Yesterday was sailing at its best. Steady 12 knot wind and lots of sun. Last night was interesting sailing under the stars with squalls passing close but no problem. Even a little lightening. This morning as the sun came up a large black sky was revealed just behind us with winds building to 20 kts. All hands on deck! Reef the jib, tack to put in a double reef in the main. This gets a little snarled but within minutes the
reef is in and we are back on course with a now familiar scenario of close hauled in 20 kt wind. We make best speed away from the dark sky with blue sky ahead. That's how it goes I guess. We have had an easy crossing of the ITCZ so far. A bit further south and we will be past it altogether. We are still making our 120 mile days. The current has not been our friend though. On the return trip we get that all back I suppose. We have changed destination for Papeete. We really don't have time to stop
at Rangiroa and be in Papeete by the end of the month. Our easting is getting more difficult as well. We have our easting for Papeete so I we can hold a south course or better we will be fine. I am sure looking forward that landfall. Position 5 37N 148 30W
Ron

In The Tropics

We entered the ITCZ this morning. Also known as the doldrums. We have 12 kt wind and gentle seas with occasional showers passing through. We are passing through the area with thunderstorms well to the west and east. So it looks good. We will get some much needed boat washings. Nice to get some of the salt washed off. We made 125 miles in the last 24 hrs. Doing well. We have our sleep patterns on a system that seems to work. Mahi for dinner...again?
Aloha, Ron

Slogging Away

We continue to bounce along here. Now at 9N 149W sailing in 22 kt wind 6 ft seas. Yesterday we caught another Mahi. We had just about used up the first one so the lines went back out. After a few hours we had another. This was a smaller one, just right. Ling made Mahi/Spam fried rice. Its was very good but in these seas cooking is really difficult. It also heats up the cabin. The forecast keeps enticing us with 10-15 kt wind but we haven't seen it yet. We are getting closer to the ITCZ where we should
get lighter winds but possible thunderstorms. So far the reports are they are west of us. That can change though. The ITCZ is at 5N so couple more days before we are there. Our progress is still very good. Although I complain about the 20 and above wind, it is very lucky for us to have it from the NE. We have been on a loose close reach and even beam reach all of time. We are making our easting and even tracking east of my planned course. The wind will turn east eventually, then we will be able to
fall off to the south still close reaching. Sleeping would seem impossible in these conditions, but somehow it works. Extra pillows are essential. The net controller has complained that my radio signal is distorted. He suggests checking the connections. When it is calmer I will do that. The email seems to go out just fine. So we are doing well.
Ron

Big Improvement

Since my earlier entry the sea conditions have improved. The weird swell pattern that caused all the trouble abated and the wind backed off to a reasonable 18 kts. I took a 2 hour snooze, conditions improved and now the boat is sailing well again at 6 kts in 6 foot seas. Fishing lines are back out. Now that we are at 10N we are in the tropics. The humidity is much higher. Correction to my earlier entry, we made 131 miles in the last 24 hours. The current against is less now so that should help our
progress a bit. We have seen many Malolo flying through the air. Really big schools. Should be some big fish chasing them around here.
Ron

10 North

Aloha Everybody,
We are one third of the way now if we keep up to 120 miles a day. We made good progress last night into worsening seas till we finally had to slow down. Winds are about 25 kt and seas 10 feet. We are occasionally getting slammed pretty good. It is not comfortable and my sleep has suffered for it. The wind generator likes it though. Batteries are fully charged now. I am hoping the seas settle down later today. Sooner would be better. Forecast calls for 20 kt for another day. The problem is the waves.
So we did 110 miles in the last 24 hours. After roll call yesterday Don Aukus called me on his ham radio. His signal came in very strong and clear. Wish mine was as good. We got caught up on the latest at Makani Kai Marina. It was fun to talk to him via radio. We also used the Satphone yesterday. Ling called her mom in Singapore and I call my mom and dad. It was great to talk to them. This typing is difficult when the keyboard is a moving target. We are looking forward to getting a little further
South where the wind and seas should give us a nice break.
Ron

Mahi

Hello everyone. The big excitement yesterday was a double Mahi strike. I landed both then released one. Keeping the larger one, about 8 pounds, I cut him up and Ling made mahi sandwiches for lunch and Mahi Penang Curry for dinner. Yum! The seas have been rough for a couple days, about 10 feet, so we slowed down to make the motion more tolerable, especially at night. So our progress has slowed some. We are still pushing up to a 1 knot current as well. We made 119 miles in 24 hours yesterday. Today's
progress will be less. In calmer seas we do about 6.5 knots but have slowed to 5.5 for a better ride. Today the sky is completely clear so it looks like a nice day with no squalls and 18 knot wind. To control the boat speed I adjust the size of the jib. We have a very deep reef in it and a very small adjustment makes a big difference in speed. Going over 6 knots in these seas is not comfortable. Our position now is 12N 151W. The forcast is for another day of 20kt wind then it should start to lessen
to 15kts and 10kts by Sunday. It would be nice to open up the boat to air things out. Alot of water gets into the boat in the forpeak where it goes to the bilge. The bilge needs pumping several times a day. I am making a "to do" list and also a "shoulda/coulda" list. All minor stuff so far. It has been one week since we left. After the first few days I found myself asking "Are we there yet?" Now I have settled into a comfortable feeling of just sailing and being on the boat with our now familiar
routine. So that's the way it is a 12N today.
Aloha, Ron

Day 5

We are still tracking right along. We are easily holding our planned course on a very loose close reach. The seas are moderate at 5'. Yesterday after sunrise a large ship was spotted crossing our bow at 3 miles. Showed up well on radar. Hope we don't see anymore. Sleeping was better last night without the squalls to attend to. I was able to fix the fishing reel so now we have both lines out but still no fish. I do see some birds but no big piles. Some dolphins visited again. We are eating fine. I
made my easy Panang Curry on rice. That was a hit with the crew. Were not really eating that much. Maybe I'll lose a little weight. We have sailed 650 miles. It seems like such a long way, now that I'm doing it. But each day rolls into the next and the time goes by fast. I haven't had time to read. Sailing the boat, managing problems, and sleeping eats up the day. I am really pleased with the Ham radio. I have checked in each day with Pacific Seafarers Net. My signal goes out clear and the process
is easy. They are a great organization. Its comforting to talk to someone and they know we are here. And I should mention how wonderful it is to be able send email and download weather. Progress has been good. Our best was 140 miles in 24 hr. We are averaging 120/day. It would be better but the half knot current slows us down. We usually keep it going close to 6 kts. We are sailing under double reefed main and deeply reefed jib and staysail. We vary the jib with the wind. Last night we kept the jib
small and the speed down to 5 kts. That is better for night time. We heard Brandon caught a 120# Ahi on his new boat. That is great for him. Hello to everybody. Hope all is well.
Ron

Sailing along now

We sailed past South Point on the Big Island this morning. We hit the wind line and went from calm to 18 kts. The seas were a little rough at first but as we got further out they flattened out to 3 feet. We feel we are really on the way now. We are tracking our course line perfectly to cross the equator at 145W. The plotter says we will get there in 9 days. That would be the 14th or so. The wind generator is keeping up with the electrical load. The Ham radio is working well and is really fun. Problems,
not many. The diesel jugs in the lazerette are leaking a little through the vent caps. I had to pull them all out to reorient them and tighten the caps. Should not have been so full. We are doing well with our sleep and watch schedule. Trying to cook is a big challenge. Keep it simple is the plan. Have not caught fish but haven't really been trying too hard. One of my reels is messed up so I can only use one. Maybe should have brought hand lines. Its all good.

We are underway

We left Kaneohe yesterday at 12:30 with a great send off from my friends at Makani Kai. Thank you for all the leis. We expected light winds but actually had a great sail across to Lanai with 15 kt winds most of the way. We motored a bit during the night then sailed right across the Alenuihaha Channel on a close reach in 12 kt wind. In are now in the wind shadow of the Big Island and are forced to motor for awhile. We are settling into our watch schedule and disrupted sleep. Hope I will get used to
that. Our only real excitement was when twice a tug/barge came very near us in the dark. I called them on the radio and they were helpful in altering their course around us. My radar was great to have for those situations. Once past all the channels we haven't seen any traffic. Ling has been a very good crew. She is really excited about this trip and she learning the boat very quickly. We were visited by dolphins during the night under a full moon. Very nice!!

Day of departure getting close

We are just 3 days from departure and everything is looking good to go. I have recovered sufficiently from the surgery and the weather is looking perfect for a gentle start to the voyage. The forcast is for 10-15 kt east wind. That will give us a chance to get our sea legs before any rough stuff later. I am lucky to have found another volunteer to crew with me for the trip south. Ling has decided to make the sail and I feel fortunate to have her with me. We are planning to stop first at Rangiroa if we have made sufficient easting and have the time. We need to be in Papeete by June 30th. I expect 22 day sail to Rangiroa. If that works out we will have time for a short visit. Then it will be on to Tahiti, a short 2 day sail. So, we are ready!!
Ron

Departure Plans

For this entry I had planned to have an progress report on the first day of my voyage to Tahiti. But as we all know sailing plans are just that, plans, not fact. Instead of bouncing around on the ocean, I am recovering from hernia surgery. This came about just one week before the planned departure date. I guess that is better than one week after the departure. My recovery is proceeding along well. The doctor tells me I could be fit enough to sail by June. So that is the plan, to depart about June 1st with a good weather window. Rather than Rangiroa being my first port call, I intend to sail direct for Papeete to be there by June 30th to meet Judi arriving by B-767. So there's the new plan but one never knows what's coming around the corner. Unfortunately, my able crew I had signed on was unable to delay till June. Unless I get another volunteer, I will sail singlehanded.
Ron